When thinking about clothing for shorter men, most people understand the need for special trousers (at least the shorter length part- short rise might still take some teaching!). What they don't necessarily get is the need for special shirts. After all, many men 5'9" and under shop for their shirts right off the rack and do okay. Or at least they think they do...
Often, a shorter man risks a few style pit-falls when shopping off the rack . To help, here are 5 Common Pit-falls (and their Solutions)
1) Droopy Shoulders: Depending on whether it is a dress or casual shirt, shoulder seams should rest at or within an inch or so of where the shoulder and arm meet. I see men all the time (especially in polos or camp shirts) wearing shirts where the shoulder seam is somewhere near their elbow. Shirts proportioned for shorter men are designed narrower through the shoulders to avoid this problem.
2) Dress-ed to Impress?: In general, shorter men benefit from proportioned shirts due to overall shorter length through the torso. After all, you are looking to wear a shirt- not a dress.
3) Shake Hands, not Shirt-Sleeves: Most men don't realize that they have choices beyond 32/33 and 34/35, so they don't think twice about the way their dress shirts fit through the sleeves. Too long? Roll them up! That's the solution for many. But shorter men's dress shirts offer shorter sleeves- so you can follow all those other nifty style principles like having your shirt peak out just a bit from under your suit jacket, and not be so long it obscures your knuckles. Shorter men's proportioned Dress Shirts often are offered in sleeves starting at 30" for a perfect fit, right off the rack.
4) Every Body is not created equal: For as many shapes of men under 5'9", there are a few extra details to think about when selecting a great shirt. To get the perfect fitting shirt, here are some things to look for if you are under 5'9" and...
Slim & Trim ...
Look for shirts that are labeled "slim fit," "tailored-fit," "fitted," or "trim fit." These will often provide a neat, modern silhouette without the need for tailoring. A slim fitting shirt that offers a proportioned fit for under 5'9" is also going to rest better at the shoulders, and offer a more comfortable overall length and proportions.
Wider through the chest & waist...
Shirts proportioned for 5'9" & Under that are labeled "classic-fit" or "gentleman's cut" will offer all the benefits of a shorter men's shirt (narrower shoulders, shorter overall length through torso and sleeves), but will retain more classic, even and wider proportions through the chest and torso for a better fit.
Muscular..
You know who you are- 5'7 but solid as a rock with a thicker neck and muscular arms. Your special requirements are met by looking for short men's proportioned dress shirts that offer a classic or gentleman's cut, but specific neck and sleeve lengths to match your needs. Also, ForTheFit.com offers and array of knit pique crew shirts, sweaters and camp shirts with better proportions for your particular shape.
5) Shop for You: Some of the above can be addressed through tailoring, but tailoring can be costly, time consuming, and may not achieve suitable results in all cases. Instead, consider shopping with specialty retailers who know your body shape and stock their stores accordingly.
Good luck and happy shopping,
C. Bova,
CEO, ForTheFit.com
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
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