In this job, I read men's magazines regularly as if they were academic texts. As a woman in the men's clothing business- it is one of the ways in which I can get educated in the industry, the customer, & more. There are a few of the major men's mags that I have to say- I LOVE THEM. Great, ironic, sarcastic writing about any number of relevant (and sometimes not so relevant- but funny) topics.
The one thing that doesn't work for me, though, is the Q&A section which is a part of nearly every major men's publication. You know- men write in and ask a question about life or style and some allegedly knowledgeable fellow (or lady!) gives them an answer.
I have read questions submitted by shorter men many times- where to find shorter shoes, smaller shirts, a suit that fits, etc. The answers make me furious.
Small shoes? One writer suggested a custom shoemaker for upwards of $900 for the first pair. Dress shirts that don't wear like a dress because they are so long in the tails (and everywhere else for that matter)? "Go see a tailor" is the most common answer.
So since it makes me so darn mad, here is my answer once and for all:
1. "Custom" is a great solution if you can afford it. But, too many of us can't. And don't confuse those mail-away custom shirt options as the real deal in men's tailored, custom apparel (known as "bespoke"). If you haven't been measured by a living, breathing tailor, you may well be quite unhappy with the product that arrives in the mail.
2. Tailoring - for a dress shirt, this is rarely a good option, nor is it a fair one for shorter men. It's like a little tax (pun intended). I face the same problem as a shorter woman (I'm 5'1")- I that I can rarely buy an item off the rack without having to factor in the time and money to get an item tailored. Plus, as my own tailor (a specialist in men's apparel- and now a friend, seeing as how I see him so often!) explained, taking up the tail is one thing, but once you start shortening the sleeves or bringing them in if they are too bunchy, taking in the shirt at the sides for a more modern, trim fit, etc.- it gets to be too much. You're basically reconstructing the shirt. The cost is high and even with the best tailor, the results are not ideal. For example- if you take in the sleeves to make them trimmer, it can create bunching in the shoulders- almost like the poufy sleeves in a period film). Or, the pocket placement is ll wrong because the pocket is too big and in the wrong spot for all the places you've taken in the shirt.
3. Find a shirt that fits off the rack. The
Classix brand manufactures shirts specially proportioned for the shorter man- shorter tails, smaller pockets in the proper place on the chest, shorter sleeve lengths and an overall trimmer fit. In the coming months,
ForTheFit.com will be offering some additional brands that offer the smaller men's proportions. I'll publish an update to this post when the new products arrive. If length is not an issue for you because you have a longer torso and arms, then be on the lookout for brands that cut their dress shirts in a slimmer silhouette. The magic words to look for on the package? "Trim" "Tailored Fit" "Slim Fit" "Modern Fit" - Try brands like Ben Sherman or even Lands End. These lines may still require shortening of the sleeves and tails, but at least the overall fit will lose some of the blousiness it is so hard for the tailor to take away.
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