Shorter Men have not fared well in U.S. politics. Only five of the last forty-three U.S. presidents have been shorter than average shorter than average (under 5’8.8” for U.S. males). This is in keeping with studies which show that shorter men are not taken as seriously in the workplace and their careers suffer as a result.*
5’7” Senator John McCain is therefore facing a tall challenge from his nearly 6’2” rival for the presidency, Barack Obama. McCain can make the most of his height and visually raise his stature in the public eye with some subtle, height-enhancing changes to his wardrobe.
Campaign Trail Casual:On the trail, McCain favors a classic, Washington DC approach to campaign casual. The problem? This classic look with its striking accessories and abrupt color combinations emphasizes shorter height.
The Uniform: Classic Navy, 2-Button Wool Blazer with Gold Buttons, Blue Dress Shirt with a check or plaid pattern, tan chinos and black belt & shoes.
What Works: Not surprisingly, McCain’s attire has been properly tailored. His slacks end crisply at the shoes with a proper break; sleeve lengths on shirts and jackets are perfect. Proper fitting clothes improve any look.
The Update: Monochromatic looks and vertical lines are the best way to visually add height to a shorter frame.
• The Blazer: A three-button style with gunmetal buttons, cut slimmer and closer to the body adds length.
• The Shirt: Pattern is a welcome change, but not plaid. Vertical stripes on the shirt would add inches.
• Accessories: The black belt against light colored trousers visually chops McCain in half, emphasizing shorter legs. Brown leather accessories against light colored trousers would help de-emphasize the natural break at the waist and adds height through the shoes.
The Source: Biella by
Empire Super 110 3-Button Wool Blazer, $485,
Blue Stripe Dress Shirt by Hathaway/IkeBehar, slim fit & 31” sleeve, $64, exclusively at ForTheFit.com;
Ballin short-rise, flat-front trousers in Wool or Cotton Twill, from $158 at ForTheFit.com, Nordstrom’s, and other fine stores.
The Fashion Debate: On formal occasions, such as conventions or debates, McCain is no Maverick and sticks with traditional, formal styles of dark suits and power ties. Wide ties and shapeless suits, and too many contrasting colors, however, detract from the look and from his height.
The Uniform: Black or Dark Pinstripe, 2 –Button, Full Cut Suit Jacket with reverse pleat trousers, Solid, pale blue dress shirt, and most often, a red, patterned power tie.
What Works: McCain has embraced the power of vertical stripes on occasion with his more formal ensembles, using pinstripes in the suiting or diagonal stripe patterns in the tie.
The Update: The key to formal menswear, particularly where height or width are issues, is fit.
• The Suit Jacket: McCain favors a full cut, 2-Button Style to the more modern 3-Button, slim fit. Many shorter men fear the 3-button, but it visually lengthens. Also, McCain could benefit from a slimmer cut to the suit or by having a tailor take the jacket in through the torso and at the waist.
• The trousers: Reverse pleat trousers are a classic, but the flat front style is the most universally flattering for all body shapes and sizes. Coupled with a short rise style to eliminate any sagging & bunching through the seat and thighs, trousers can help create a clean line from the jacket down, to further lengthen the shorter frame.
• The Tie: Simple suit? Then stick with the diagonal stripes on the tie where possible. Patterned Suit? To avoid visual clutter and enhance the monochromatic effect, add a solid color tie in a deeper shade. Also, look for ties that are shorter and skinnier than a standard, wide tie. Wide ties can overwhelm a smaller frame, while slimmer, monochromatic ties will add length.
The Source: Ben Sherman, slim fitting 3- Button Black Wool Suit with flat front trousers, $495, and the slimmer, shorter, solid-color tie in Deep Garnet, Charcoal or Navy tie by
Stephen J. Sotnick, $18.95 at ForTheFit.com
*See Burkhard Bilger, “
The Height Gap: Why Europeans are getting taller and taller-and Americans aren’t” The New Yorker, 2004
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